🔗 Share this article

Whenever curating a roll of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred venues. But, tucked near the top among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a outlying corner of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. The accolade has left the owners completely astonished.

“I’m utterly shocked,” states a family member, alluding to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their humble place achieving such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has maintained much of its former feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all about the food, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.